In addition to the national parks in Madagascar there are a number of small community-run reserves. In these local people care for and maintain their patch of forest. The money they get from visitors, e.g. for guiding and souvenir sales, is invested into both the village and the upkeep of the forest.
One such reserve is V.O.I.M.M.A. in the Andasibe area. The acronym stands for Vondronโolona miaro mitia ala, which translates to โLocal people love the forestโ. And they do!
We had already visited this reserve on our first night walk in Madagascar. On our last morning in this area our local guide William took us back to the park to see it in daylight. We drove through Andasibe village, where I took my feature photo through the window as we passed.
A sacred tree
To my surprise, our first stop here wasnโt to see wildlife. This is a sacred tree which William explained is held to be so because no one has ever been able to identify the species. Its leaves change each year, and it produces no fruit or seeds so doesnโt reproduce. It is thought to be thousands of years old. Malagasy people come here to leave offerings to ask for help or in gratitude when they receive it. They also make sacrifices of zebu and chicken, after which the blood is poured into the tree stump as an offering.
We crossed a river and William pointed out the spider’s web stretching right across it, and the spider hanging from it, a Darwin’s bark spider.
Indri
Soon after leaving the river we turned off on to a narrower path, still fairly flat but with some steps. The reason for the detour became obvious when we heard the unmistakable sound of the Indri. We reached a point where we could see one high in the trees above us. To get closer meant a trickier path. So William went along it with Chris while I waited on the main path with Michel. We were rewarded with a reasonable sighting from there and I also recorded the alarm call.
More sightings
As we continued our walk we passed some impressive bracket fungus, and William pointed out an orchid, Oeonia Rosea. This is endemic to Madagascar. The country has about 1,000 orchid species, of which about 850 are endemic to the island. I wondered how many William could identify on sight? Probably all of those that grow in this area, judging by his excellent knowledge about everything we saw here!
Our next sightings were certainly tiny and hard to spot. In a clump of spiny pandanus he pointed out us a pandanus weevil, and tiny (but full-grown) pandanus frog. The latter is endemic, unlike the weevil. And without William we wouldnโt have even noticed them!
There was one more treat in store, a family of common brown lemurs, with one on the path right in front of us.
Community involvement
The path ended by a small shop selling local handicrafts. Many of the items are made by local women so I was happy to help them by buying a little chameleon made from palm leaves. The shopkeeper was grateful far more than my tiny purchase deserved. The colourful creature now sits on a shelf in our kitchen.
It was good to know our small payment would help to support the community and to maintain this patch of forest. It is generally thought that the island has lost 80 or 90% of its โpre-humanโ forest cover. And certainly evidence from aerial photographs suggests that by c. 2000, around 40% to 50% of the forest cover present in 1950 had been lost. How essential is that then that what remains is preserved, and how fantastic is that local communities are now stepping up and doing their bit.
Sharing as always for Jo and her Monday Walks.
I visited Madagascar in October/November 2023
38 Comments
bluebrightly
Yea for community forests, especially in poorer countries. And yea for that strange orchid. ๐ The story of the tree is fascinating. After all that, my favorite photo is of the window! Thanks, Sarah.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you, and yes, yea indeed for any initiative like this one ๐ Many people have picked out that window as a favourite shot!
SoyBend
That’s weird they can’t identify the tree. Nice photo of the fungus. I had no idea they had so many species of orchids (and lemurs).
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, very strange. Apparently the leaves and seeds look different each year!
Teresa
Same with the other guys here, I also love the mugs on the window.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks Teresa, glad you liked them!
Christie
It is nice to hear there are such community-run reserves, taking care of the already reduced forests and animal habitats.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, I was impressed by these schemes which supplement the efforts the government there is (now) making to preserve what is left of the natural environment.
Eunice
Great shots of the brown lemurs, they look so cute ๐ I wouldn’t have been able to resist those colourful pots in the souvenir shop window, I would have bought them all – it’s nice that any money made goes towards the upkeep of the forest and the village.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Eunice ๐ The lemurs were all really cute, I loved watching them! As for the shopping, I need to keep size and weight down while travelling so my little chameleon was a great option.
ourcrossings
The colourful cups in the window are so beautiful and so are lemurs. Madagascarโs natural history, especially its birds and lemurs, is like nothing else on the planet. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day ๐ Aiva xx
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Aiva, I’m glad you enjoyed this ๐ Yes, the lemurs in particular are really lovely!
grandmisadventures
I really love the sacred tree and the tea cups in the window ๐ I love that you’re bringing attention to this community reserve and what it means to the people there ๐
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you – we hadn’t heard about these community-run reserves prior to our visit but we were really glad our guide had brought us here ๐
Rose
I really enjoyed this adventure. The sacred tree is so remarkable, I would love to know more about it. The call of the Indri was fascinating, I would have never guessed that came from an animal, it sounded more like an instrument of some kind. Itโs always heart-warming when local communities care about their forests.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Rose, I’m glad you enjoyed this. I find the Indri’s call almost supernatural!
restlessjo
I almost missed this one, Sarah. I forgot you said you’d scheduled and I didn’t have much time for the Reader yesterday. Rather different from Paris, isn’t it? Nice to feel that you’re making a contribution by being there. Thanks for the mention!
Sarah Wilkie
Glad you found this Jo ๐ I was planning to share the link when I got home later today. That should have been mid afternoon but thanks to a strike on Eurostar, a cancelled train and a hurried booking on a flight, it will now be mid evening!!
restlessjo
You’ll get there, Sarah ๐ค๐ฉท
Marilyn Armstrong
You actually SAW Indri! I have read about them, but to really see them is spectacular!
I wonder how — and also why — the sacred tree ended up in a place where it is totally unique. I have never heard of this before. I can see why they would consider is sacred. I might consider it sacred too!
Sarah Wilkie
Yes we saw Indri twice – here and on the previous day too, in a nearby reserve! That tree puzzles me too ๐ค
the eternal traveller
I was hoping we might see your little chameleon. It’s nice to show support for local businesses isn’t it.
Sarah Wilkie
Oh yes, I should take a photo and share him some time!
Marie
What a lot you’ve seen – on this walk alone! I like that weevil! It’s great you could support local crafts.. And what a perfectly framed photo to finish up on!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Marie ๐ Every walk there was a mini adventure!
Monkey's Tale
I love the lemur and Indiri of course but the story of the sacred tree is fascinating. I’ve never read of this tree’s unique leaves and fruit before and now I want to learn more. Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Maggie ๐ I found it fascinating too but haven’t had the chance yet to do much digging around to learn more. Let me know if you find anything interesting!
Anne Sandler
Great post Sarah! Again, thank you for taking us along and recording vocals.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Anne – as always, I’m pleased to hear you enjoyed this ๐
Sue
Fascinating about that sacred tree, and I agree itโs fantastic that
Sue
that local communities are now stepping up and doing their bit.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, I was impressed by that. I have another rather different sacred tree to share later, that we saw towards the end of the trip.
Sue
Look forward to it
margaret21
Great stories and images as ever. But this time, I think that my takeaway is that evocative and wistful call of the indri. Once heard, never forgotten?
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Margaret – certainly a sound I’ll never forget!
margaret21
Even at second hand it’s quite something.
Sue
Yes, I think youโre right
satyam rastogi
Nice ๐