I have long maintained that one of the things that travel teaches us is that people the world over have more in common than you might expect if you only read about other countries or watch TV news and documentaries. Everyone wants to feel safe, to be in good health, to have the basic necessities of life. If they have children, they want the same for them and they want them to thrive and do well in their lives.
North Koreans too are not so very different from us in those respects. But one thing the country and its people don’t have, that many others do, is a prevailing religion. Driving around you see no mosques, churches, temples, shrines or synagogues. However every village, however small, has its Immortality or Eternal Life Tower to remind the people of the immortality of Kim Il Sung. There is also always at least one monument to, or image of, him and his son, Kim Jong Il.
a mosaic portrait of Kim Jong Il visiting the farm and an Eternal Life Tower
The Eternal Leaders
Devotion to the Leaders is not a religion, of course. It doesn’t offer its followers the certainty of an after-life, for instance. And there are no gods in the sense that we might understand the term. But it is a belief system, and it provides its believers with many of the same comforts and certainties that a religion might do.
The people are confident that the Leaders have always looked after their people and protected them, and that they continue to do so today. Not only the current leader, Kim Jong Un, but also the two previous ones. The Great Leader and President Kim Il Sung, who led the revolution that freed the people from the tyranny of Japanese occupation, and repelled the threat of the US during the Korean War. And the Dear Leader, Chairman Kim Jong Il, who reinforced the spirit of the revolution and furthered the country’s self-reliance and independence. These two are considered to be Eternal Leaders, still watching over the people. So perhaps for the Kims at least there is an after-life?
As with a religion, it behoves its believers to show their gratitude to those who watch over and protect them, and to show them proper reverence. As a visitor you are expected not only to respect the rituals attendant on that, but also invited to participate in them. To do so, I found, not only pleases your hosts but also strengthens enormously your understanding of this country and its people.
Mansudae Hill, Pyongyang
Consequently in Pyongyang we were invited to pay our respects to the bronze statues of the Great Leaders, Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, on Mansudae Hill, laying flowers at their feet. This is optional, no one is forced to do so, but if you go you must follow their rules. In terms of photography, this means taking pictures only from the front and full-length. It is forbidden to zoom in on the statues or to cut off any part. You’re also not allowed to make silly poses in front of them for your photos, although you may pose respectfully.
Originally only Kim Il Sung stood here. His statue was erected in April 1972 to mark his 60th birthday. It was originally intended to be covered in gold leaf, but this was later changed to bronze. After Kim Jong Il died in 2011 a similar statue of him was erected next to his father. At the same time, Kim Il Sung’s statue was altered to show him older and smiling. The statue of Kim Jong Il at first depicted him wearing a long coat. But this was shortly afterwards changed to his signature parka after, it is said, the people objected that it wasn’t a typical image of their late Leader.
The statues are twenty metres high and appear even taller, thanks to the stone plinth on which they stand, which adds a few more metres, and the fact that you approach them from below. Behind them is the building of the Korean Revolution Museum, on which is a mosaic mural of the sacred mountain, Mount Paektu. It was on its slopes that Kim Il Sung based his guerrilla troops and, according to official DPRK historical accounts, that Kim Jong Il was born.
Some statues elsewhere
In other towns and cities we sometimes visited the statues and bowed, but didn’t take flowers. I was reminded of all these statues when I included the image featured above in my recent Sense of Scale gallery. So I thought it would be interesting to bring together all of the statues we visited in one post. They really are all as huge as they look! And while they look the same initially, look carefully and you will see the different poses of the two men.
The ones in Kaesong caused a bit of friction between one member of our group and our guide. He was a bit of a pain, always trying to push the boundaries of what was permitted. He liked to show off and to wind up the guides who were, after all, just doing their job. On this occasion he was first off the bus and up the hill to the statues’ feet. He then proceeded to walk around to the side to take photos and to zoom in on the heads. As I mentioned above, all photos have to be taken in front and full length, so our guide asked him to delete them. He refused at first, eventually gave in with bad grace, and sulked for the rest of the day!
Occasionally we were shown rather different aspects of the Dear Leaders in statue form.
the Eternal Leaders with the children they loved
a statue of Kim Il Sung as a young revolutionary leader
Mosaic portraits
While we’re about it, let’s have a look at just a few of the many huge mosaic portraits. These are far more common than the statues. Typically they will show one or both of the Leaders in one of several settings. Posing in front of the crater lake on the sacred mountain of Mount Paektu is a favourite, as are scenes of them dispensing guidance. This is a particular feature of the Kim leadership regime. The Great Leaders are considered expert in anything they turn their hands to, from building tractors to writing operas, growing rice to aviation. Their devotion to their people means that each in turn during his rule was indefatigable in touring the country, visiting workplaces to urge workers to ever greater efforts and give their expert advice.
Less frequently you may see Kim Il Sung’s wife Kim Jong Suk included or even occasionally on her own, reflecting her importance as the ‘mother of the revolution’ and of Kim Jong Il. The person you won’t see is the current Leader, Kim Jong Un. He is still alive and still with his people. These depictions in statue and portrait form are all about deifying the previous Leaders after death.
These mosaics may be unlike anything found elsewhere. But for North Koreans they are public art, on display everywhere as a constant reminder of the love their Eternal Leaders have for them and the devotion they are owed in return. So I’m sharing this post with Natalie for her Public Art challenge.
I visited North Korea in 2019
48 Comments
Fraggle
Excellent post, love the photographs and the insight.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much, I’m pleased you liked this 🙂
niasunset
a brave journey and an interesting post, Thank you dear Sarah, Love, nia
Sarah Wilkie
Glad you found this interesting, thank you 😀 But if you’re suggesting I was brave to visit the country, not at all. You’re well looked after there and as long as you follow the rules will be made very welcome and be perfectly safe!
grandmisadventures
So interesting to see such an ardent admiration and adoration of their leaders to create so many statues and mosaics.
Sarah Wilkie
Well the state creates the statues etc, and demands the adoration! But from what I observed it is genuinely felt by many, if not all.
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
I don’t think I followed you at the time you wrote about N Korea, but I remember reading Albert’s posts with interest. Fascinating that they actually alter the statues. It really is a different world. The nearest images of ‘rulers’ that I have witnessed promoting this sort of adulation were the massive portraits of Queen Elizabeth and King Charles on either side of the Shankhill Rd in Belfast. The Loyalist guide couldn’t have adored them more.
Sarah Wilkie
It was Albert’s posts from his first visit that sparked our interest in going there. I wasn’t blogging on WordPress back in 2019 although I did write at great length on my previous platform, TravellersPoint, and I’ve harvested that for quite a few posts here over the years!
Anonymous
I think equating the status of the rules of the country to a religion is absolutely correct. And not so much of a reach – I’m thinking of the Dahli Lama and the big tombs of the Egyptians and Mayans.
Rosalie
If the rules are given up front, then you either comply or you don’t go. I have a problem with people who change the rules in the middle (published documents say that photos are allowed, but the guide tells me I can’t take photos) or with stupid statements like “It is illegal to take photos of any historic buildings in North Carolina” When in reality, there are certain specific buildings where it is against the rules to take photos inside the buildings. But reconstructed buildings are not included. And the outside is always available.
Sarah Wilkie
I completely agree with what you say about rules Rosalie 😀 In the case of North Korea I was actually pleasantly surprised to find the rules about photography to be less strict than I’d anticipated. We only visited two buildings where we couldn’t take photos inside.
Annie Berger
What was the reason given why people could only photograph the leaders from the front and full view?
Sarah Wilkie
It’s considered more respectful. And they’re very wary of visitors taking and later sharing shots that seem to make fun of the leaders – I think they feel it’s easier to control what images are shared around the world if only certain poses are allowed. I guess they’re forgetting about Photoshop etc! If I was minded to be disrespectful and break their rules I could easily crop and even distort some of my shots, but I prefer not to do that. Apart from anything else, when I consulted our UK guide about the ethics of blogging about the trip, he said it would be fine but I should be careful to ensure that I continued to follow their rules and guidelines, as if something inappropriate that I posted was seen and traced back to our Korean guide, she could get into trouble. I actually had him (the UK guide) read and vet all the full accounts of our days that I originally posted on TravellersPoint, and I make sure to follow his advice when transfering bits of those here 🙂
Annie Berger
Thanks for the very thorough explanation. What a model visitor you were especially considering the extra lengths you went to to ensure there was no pushback on your Korean guide after having your posts vetted first. I’m extremely impressed, Sarah. Knowing your philosophy on being a responsible traveler, it must have irked you to no end seeing your fellow passenger attempt to challenge the rules at every turn.
thehungrytravellers.blog
The mosaics are absolutely splendid, beautifully created. Very interesting reading of the “worship” of living leaders supplanting the worship of Gods, similar of course to Buddhism. In both styles of worship (and this is a comment that only a non-religious person can make), there is historically the fear factor, too. Give the people something to be fearful of and you can exert an extra layer of control. Religion….dictatorship….cult leaders….it works in all cases.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Phil 🙂 I should say that not everyone would make this link between devotion to the deceased Kims and a religion, and there are clear differences, but also similarities. Certainly the North Korean people are taught to believe that the Kims always have their best interests at heart and are not to be questioned. And there is no freedom or even (for most) the desire to question this, because they lack the information that would lead them to do so – no internet, no awareness of the outside world. In that it differs from religions, as many who are brought up in a specific faith later come to question and even to abandon it, based on their wider experiences, contact with others etc.
kzmcb
Very informative.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you 🙂
Teresa
Thanks Sarah for sharing this. N Korea is definitely not in my bucket list but this is so interesting to learn. They do idolise them so much to build this many statues and portraits huh
By the way, I have experienced the same as that annoying person on your tour. It really ruined the whole experience… you just wonder why there are such kinds of people.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Teresa 🙂 Unfortunately this isn’t the only time we’ve had someone in a group determined to spoil it for everyone else, which is why we no longer go on group tours. North Korea was different in that it’s the only way you’re allowed to visit most of the country. And we didn’t let him ruin it for us although he did spoil it a bit. I guess it brought the rest of us together in a way!
Easymalc
A question for you Sarah. Did your vivit to N.K. confirm or change your thoughts about the country?
Easymalc
visit.
Sarah Wilkie
Interesting question Malcolm, but hard to answer! I would say it served to widen my perspective on the country, changing some preconceived ideas but maybe confirming (or slightly nuancing) others, plus adding a lot more thoughts! Certainly the visit, plus my subsequent reading, gave me a much better understanding of its recent history and the part the West played in its creation, as well as the part we still play in the regime’s outlook and policies. Not to mention getting to know at least our two guides and feel I had a connection to individuals there, not just seeing the country as an homogenous whole created in the image of its leaders.
Easymalc
An interesting reply too Sarah.
the eternal traveller
Very interesting. For us the one important thing to remember about international travel is that you respect the laws and cultural expectations of the country you’re in. That rude guy on your tour would do well to think about his actions. He would complain loudly if he was punished for his disrespect.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, absolutely 🙂 That guy took pleasure in finding ways around the rules and trying to fool the guides, and that made them a bit more vigilant over the group as a whole which impacted on all of us. If he’d been caught in a major transgression not only would he have been punished (more likely thrown out of the country rather than imprisoned, btw) but also the senior guide who would have lost her job. What’s more, the punishment would have extended to her young daughter who would find herself barred from the better universities and unable to get such a prestigious job herself when she grew up.
the eternal traveller
What a very rude and inconsiderate man. I hope we never come across anyone like that.
Natalie
Sarah, Thank you for your PPAC contribution. Very interesting post and beautiful photos that take me to a country that I haven’t visited.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks Natalie, I’m glad you found this interesting 🙂
Egídio
Fascinating post and photos, Sarah.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Egidio 🙂
Marilyn Armstrong
I have said for many years that Americans should spend at least half a year abroad. This is such a big and diverse country, you can live a lifetime and never see all of it, but to have a grip on what the rest of the world is like, you need to be there. Interact with people in their daily lives, not just those who are tourist providers. That being said, I’m pretty sure were Trump to get re-elected, this country would look like that too only with the orange-haired demon lurking over us.
Sarah Wilkie
Not just Americans! But living in so large a country maybe fewer of you feel the urge to travel abroad, and varied as the US is, it’s not the same as experiencing a foreign culture, I agree.
margaret21
Fascinati9ng stuff Sarah – thanks for sharing. What about the artists? Are they known and feted? Or are they, as mediaeval monks did in Christian Europe, ‘worshipping’ in their own way without the need for recognition and thanks?
Sarah Wilkie
The artists all work out of the Mansudae Art Studio in Pyongyang, a centralised point where all the country’s propaganda art is produced, from huge statues down to quite simple posters. It’s considered a very responsible and respected job, well paid by North Korean standards, but they’re all anonymous when it comes to credits on what they produce. Interestingly these days the country gets some of its much-needed but hard to come by foreign export currency by making statues here for other dictator states! One of the main disappointments of our trip was that unlike some groups we didn’t get to visit here. Your itinerary is always organised by the Korean travel bureau so you’re at their whim and as there isn’t time for everything they’d like to show you, it’s pot luck what you get. Most groups I believe do go to the studios so we were unlucky, although we did got to one of their shops!
margaret21
You did cram a lot in, so maybe missing out this workshop allowed other trips denied other groups in. A pity though.
Sarah Wilkie
Very true – we were the first ever group to go to the state apple farm, for instance!
Sue
Much to ponder….
Sarah Wilkie
Yes indeed 🙂
Steven and Annie Berger
Great topic and photos. I read and enjoy all your posts even though I don’t usually comment. Annie and I are still not sure about visiting North Korea!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Steven, that’s nice to hear 😀 And no hurry to decide about visiting North Korea, their borders are still closed (although there’s talk of opening just a small part in the far north, around Mount Paektu on the Chinese border).
Heyjude
That’s an awful lot of statues!
Sarah Wilkie
And yet just the tip of the iceberg!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Fascinating to see and much to ponder. Well done.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Suzanne 🙂
Monkey's Tale
That’s a lot of statues! Richard grew up in communist Poland and although it wasn’t nearly as strict as North Korea, he has told me many stories of how religion was discouraged. That guy on your tour sounds like a jerk. Why do some people always have to be like that. Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Maggie 🙂 That’s the perfect word for him, a jerk! And he spoiled it a little for the rest of us, as we had to listen to his complaints. If you don’t like the rules, don’t go – that’s my maxim 😀
Anne Sandler
Thanks for this glimpse into No. Korea Sarah.
Sarah Wilkie
You’re welcome Anne, I’m always glad to have you stop by 🙂