Looking up at tall trees
California,  Monday walks,  Sunday Stills,  Trees, forests and woodland

Walking among giants

John Steinbeck, Travels with Charley: In Search of America

There are two types of redwood tree to be found in California, each as majestic as the other. The Giant Sequoias are the most massive trees in the world, measured by a combination of height and width. I will return to them in a later post. Today it is all about the Coastal Redwoods which, although not as massive overall, are the tallest trees to be found anywhere in the world. The tallest among them stands at 380 feet, as high as a 37-storey building. Their trunks can grow more than 27 feet wide, about eight paces for an average adult! And hard to fathom, but these trees can live for more than 2,000 years. Some Coastal Redwoods living today were alive during the time of the Roman Empire.

Sprig of green tree needles on a bed of brown ones
Coastal Redwood needles in Gould Grove

These majestic trees once grew the length of the California coast from south of Big Sur to just over the Oregon border. But logging during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries decimated them. Today only five percent of the original old-growth Coastal Redwood forests remain, along a 450-mile strip, and much of it now young. The largest surviving stands of ancient coast redwoods are found in several protected areas, including the Humboldt Redwoods State Park. That is where I want to take you today, for a couple of Monday Walks.

The Avenue of the Giants

You could travel south to north (or north to south of course) through this part of California along Highway 101. It is scenic enough and a good, fast road. But to get close to the trees it’s better by far to detour off the main road and follow State Road 254, the Avenue of the Giants. This skirts the western edge of Humboldt Redwoods State Park and had numerous stopping places where you can get out of the car and walk among these titans. We did two of the shorter trails, each allowing us to get close to and really appreciate their grandeur.

Gould Grove

This trail near the Visitor Center took us on a loop through a redwood grove which features 300-foot trees, evidence of early logging. I found myself taking lots of photos of the awe-inspiring trees, even though I knew one would look pretty much like the other. It’s almost impossible to convey their size in a photograph, but I asked Chris to pose in some of my shots to try to give a sense of scale. See if you can spot him in the gallery below!

At the furthest point from the road the trail has a path leading down to a river, the South Fork of the Eel River, which you can see in the bottom right shot.

Founders Grove

This grove is named for the founders of the Save the Redwoods league, formed in 1917 by a group of men to preserve at least some areas of primeval forests. They purchased their first grove here in 1921.

Again, you might be able to spot Chris in the gallery below!

The Founders Tree itself is one of the tallest of the Coastal Redwoods, possibly the tallest. I say possibly because I have seen some contradictory descriptions online. The National Park website describes it as being:

364 feet in height and 15 feet in diameter at the base. It is commonly referred to as the “world’s tallest known standing tree”.

But a sign in front of it on this trail told us it was ‘just’ 346.1 feet high and 12.7 feet in diameter. Meanwhile Wikipedia lists several trees (all Coastal Redwoods) taller than this, as does the Monumental Trees website. However the latter goes on to say that the tallest trees, discovered only in 2006, grow in a remote area that is not easily accessible and has not been disclosed. I guess that means that this Founders Tree is the tallest tree any of us is ever likely to see! Of course it’s impossible to show the scale in a photo, or even fit the whole tree in, but I tried.

While there are many beautiful green shades here, there is also plenty of brown, so I’m linking to Terri’s Sunday Stills colour challenge for November.

I visited Humboldt Redwoods State Park in September 2024 – see our full road trip itinerary here

62 Comments

  • Annie Berger

    I loved this post on so many fronts – seeing the majestic trees that date to the Roman times, the solitude it appeared you experienced in the park, and reading your vivid descriptions. Also, it was fun spotting Chris in two of the photos!

  • grandmisadventures

    Beautiful pictures of the redwoods. I remember as a kid we went to see the redwoods and I was so overwhelmed at how small I was compared to them. We all tried to hug one tree and with the 5 of us we didn’t even reach half way around.

  • Jim Earlam

    I agree completely about the experience of walking among the redwoods. I was fortunate to visit the coastal redwoods back in 2017 and was in awe of them. Love the John Steinbeck quote 😀

    • Sarah Wilkie

      Thank you Jim 🙂 I loved that quote when I found it too! I’m a big admirer of Steinbeck’s work and Travels with Charley helped fuel my love of exploring the US by road.

      • Jim Earlam

        Of mice and men is the only Steinbeck I have read, which I suspect is true for most people as it was on the curriculum at school. The grapes of wrath I always thought would be the next if I were to read another but I think you have may have pointed me to Travels with Charley 😀

        • Sarah Wilkie

          Grapes of Wrath was on my curriculum and was my introduction to Steinbeck. It remains one of my favourites but I also love East of Eden, Cannery Row, Charley and the less well-known Winter of our Discontent.

  • ThingsHelenLoves

    I’m a huge fan of forest bathing and spending as much time as possible outdoors, I’d love to spend some time with the giants. Interesting to read that the movement to protect the Redwoods began so early. The Founders were forward thinking and I appreciate them!

    • Sarah Wilkie

      Thank you Helen – I’m sure you would love it here! Yes, those Founders were ahead of their time, as were some others (John Muir springs to mind) who realised early on that once lost these landscapes could never be recaptured. We owe them a lot!

  • Rebecca

    I visited Sequoia National Park years ago as a kid, and I recall just how wondrously gigantic the trees were. Goes to show just how fascinating the natural world we live in is!

  • Anonymous

    We didn’t get north of San Francisco but we went several times to Big Basin State Park between Monterey and San Francisco. At one time there were deer there that you could buy food for and feed them. The photo of my dad in front of a cross section of a redwood tree which was 2200 years old in 1934 was taken there.

    Rosalie

  • thehungrytravellers.blog

    They are absolutely amazing to walk amongst, they have something approaching an air of supremacy, if that’s possible for a tree. Like, they know more than we do. We didn’t visit this park but we walked amongst them at Sequoia. Great experience.

  • Anonymous

    I have never had the opportunity to see these trees, but you give us some sense of what it must be like to walk among them

  • singlikewildflowers

    This park sounds amazing! I’d love to visit there when I have a chance since I live in CA too. The redwood trees are majestic, and I really enjoyed our family’s outing to Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park in Santa Cruz during COVID.

  • margaret21

    These photos capture so well our only experience of ‘walking among giants’, years ago in British Colombia. It is indeed an experience like no other. Thanks for the memories!

  • Alison

    You still managed to convey the beauty of these famous trees. We tried to visit but you had to park so far away that we turned around! We did visit Muir Beach though

  • Teresa

    I have experienced to have stood beneath these giants many years ago when I went to San Francisco. It was when social media wasn’t the thing yet so I completely forgot where we went. But I could still remember the feeling. Thanks for sharing these lovely photos, Sarah.

  • bushboy

    You have managed to convey our insignificance in nature well Sarah. Photographing huge giant trees is a challenge. Well executed to convey their reaching for the sky

  • Paul

    Hello Sarah, You described well, the almost indescribable, and that is the majesty of these magnificent trees. I’ve lived in California for 68 years and I still have not visited the Avenue of the Giants. Every May (I believe it’s May), there is a marathon that goes through the Avenue of the Giants. I entered twice and both times I was not able to run due to injury. Hopefully I will make it up there soon – a visit, not the marathon.
    Paul

  • ghostmmnc

    These are amazing trees. I’ve never seen them, or anything like them before. Hard to imagine how tall they are. Our tallest building in our city is only 20 stories and to us that is huge. Thanks so much for the information and photos. 🙂

    • Sarah Wilkie

      Thank you Barbara, I’m really pleased to have been able to introduce you to these trees 🙂 Their height is hard to fathom even when you are there, as the tops of the tallest seem almost out of sight!

  • Rose

    I’ve been to all the places you shared here. Remembering the immensity of the trees in this forested area, fills my heart with Awe all over again! You are right, it isn’t possible to successfully photograph a redwood, we tried multiple views with cameras and phones, yet nothing can compare to being there. Chris looks so tiny next to the trees!😄

    • Sarah Wilkie

      I’m so pleased to have been able to ‘take’ you back there Rose 😀 Yes, Chris looks very small – I was glad to have him pose and show off the scale like that!

  • Anne Sandler

    I’m so glad you were able to experience the coastal redwoods Sarah. We camped at Richardson Grove when our kids were young, and it was simply amazing. Talk about a dense/dark forest; I took the boys to a campfire one night without a flashlight. Typically there’s enough moonlight to see the trail, but not on this night. It was totally dark. We waited until we found a family walking to our campground and walked with them. A night to remember.

    • Sarah Wilkie

      We were only here during the day time so didn’t experience them after dark. But we did spend two nights in a cabin in Grant Grove near some pretty big sequoias, and had to find our way back from the restaurant at night by torchlight!

        • Sarah Wilkie

          The cabin we stayed in was built in 1910 and definitely had a shower! So I believe do some of the others, but others share a bath house. The restaurant wasn’t fancy (more like a fast food place in some ways) but the food was tasty 🙂

          • Anne Sandler

            I remember the cabins, but never knew there were showers in them. All the campgrounds had were a central water tap and no electricity. I wonder why they didn’t have pay showers for the campers. We had to go down to Lodgepole in Sequoia to shower.

  • Marilyn Armstrong

    I expected to be awed by the redwoods, but it was even more awesome than I expected. We were in Muir Woods. I don’t know if they survived the fires. I certainly hope so. I have guilt syndrome because my parents clad their house in redwood. I was only 6 or maybe 7, so it wasn’t like I had much to say about it and it was before I realized what we were doing to the earth, but I still feel guilty about it. Even 70 years later. What amazing trees.

    Your pictures are as good as any I’ve seen including Ansel Adams.

    • Sarah Wilkie

      You definitely flatter me with that comment on the photos Marilyn 😊 I suspect seventy years ago relatively few people thought about whether it was a good idea to cut down these trees. I know there was a thriving logging industry all along this coast. We’re lucky some pristine old-growth groves were saved!

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