On a Sunday evening the promenades along Phnom Penh’s two rivers, the Tonle Sap and the Mekong, are thronged with people. Families come out to enjoy the cooling air. Monks in traditional robes sit talking quietly in small groups. Boats ply the waters, ferrying their passengers to the opposite bank or on pleasure cruises.
And where there are people, others will be there to sell to them: flower sellers, fortune tellers, food hawkers, balloon sellers and more.
Freedom for sparrows
Near a temple we came across a woman selling live sparrows. Our guide Van explained that worshippers heading for the shrine would pay to have two or more released (never only one, because it would be lonely) and would make a prayer or wish as they flew off. She decided to buy the entire contents of one particularly small cage and did so, watched wistfully by a tiny kitten who had obviously been hoping one of the sparrows would somehow fall into his clutches. There were six birds in total, two each. So in turn we took our pair, held them gently (I had never held such a small bird before, never mind two!) and sent them on their way to freedom.
We were pleased to have released the birds from their imprisonment; although I later read that these so-called Merit Releases are not necessarily the act of kindness that they may seem. Many of the birds that are released are re-captured, only to be released, re-captured and released, ad infinitum. A cycle that can bring no good to the bird, whatever it does for the person releasing it.
Sunset
With most people occupied with socialising, eating or both, it was easy to take the candid street photos I love. But there were other photo ops too, including a beautiful sunset over the Royal Palace.
When we saw this cute toddler riding in a basket at the front of his mother’s bike, Van offered to buy some of the prawn crackers the woman was selling in return for photos. The toddler seemed to think that the crackers were all his; he looked quite mournful when his mother handed us the bag. But after we had each had a couple of crackers Van passed the rest back to him, making him much more cheerful!
A very young Person from around the world! So we left him to enjoy the crackers and headed off to sample some rather more challenging street foods.
35 Comments
Pingback:
equinoxio21
Thanks for the visit.
We lived in Cambodia for 18 months. I was 3 to 4. My very first visual memories are from Phnomh Penh. I even wrote a post about that.
Merci.
Sarah Wilkie
An interesting place to have spent part of your childhood for sure. Thank you for visiting this and some of my other older posts, I appreciate you hunting them down!
equinoxio21
🙏🏻
(Search is a wonderful tool)
Sarah Wilkie
And yet I can’t find your post about living in Cambodia!
equinoxio21
Ah. Here’s the link.
https://equinoxio21.wordpress.com/2016/02/04/the-little-boy-and-the-tiger/
equinoxio21
I also did a long series called “Ancient Indochina”, based on a very old photo album. Pictures taken around 1900. That one is easy to find. You could compare some of the views of the Tonlé-Sap then to today. 😉
Sarah Wilkie
I’ve already read and loved your tiger story. And I’ll definitely be back to check out the 1900 ones 🙂
Oh, the Places We See
What a beautiful place for strolling and people watching. You’ve made me kind of sad with the story of the little bird, but I’ll bet it’s quite true. Still, I’m happy to have been treated to an evening in Phnom Penh.
Sarah Wilkie
I only just now spotted this comment and others, thanks to checking out a new one here! I do apologise for not thanking you at the time 🙂 I agree about the birds but the customs of other countries and religions are very different from ours and we can’t argue with them too much while visiting I reckon.
Oh, the Places We See
You always share the best. Thanks for all the time you spend posting. I’ve learned so much from you.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you 😊 It’s my pleasure to post. I enjoy the responses and interaction. I know I’m privileged to be able to travel as much as I do and I like to share what I can of it with others 🙂
Oh, the Places We See
And you are one of the best! Your details have meant a lot. I hope you continue for a long, long time.
SandyL
Lovely collection of photos Sarah. Reminds me of the brief time we spent there. I remember the Tonle but mostly in the context of crossing it by ferry and almost dying of heat exhaustion 😉
Sarah Wilkie
I do feel bad Sandy! As I said to Amy below, I only just now spotted a whole load of comments here thanks to checking out a new one here! I do apologise for not thanking you at the time 🙂
Sandy
No worries Sarah. I’d long forgotten this myself.
Amy
Beautiful photo tour, Sarah. I so not happy to see them selling birds in BKK.
Sarah Wilkie
How dreadful of me Amy, I only just now spotted this comment thanks to checking out a new one here! I do apologise for not thanking you at the time 🙂
restlessjo
A boy and his prawn cracker must not be parted 🙂 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Lol yes – I wish I’d thought of that as a heading 😂😂
maristravels
Great post and lovely pix as usual. I did the bird releasing in Vietnam, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia amd each time felt it was a mistake. I think if we stopped doing this the sellers of these birds would have to give up their trade, but it’s hard to tell new travellers the things we’ve learned over the years without seeming too dictatorial.
Sarah Wilkie
I’m becoming more and more conscious about the impact tourism can have on animal welfare or the lack of it (I would never ride an elephant these days, for instance, although I did so many years ago). But I have a feeling we have relatively little impact on this particular activity as it seemed to me it was the local worshippers buying the bulk of the birds. In fact I don’t think I saw any tourists do so, apart from our guide Van buying them for us to release. So I suspect the practice would continue even without travellers participating.
wetanddustyroads
Ahh, I just love the little one’s face … so sweet! Your sunset photo’s are also beautiful – you must have wonderful memories of your visit to Cambodia 📸.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, great memories of that trip 🙂 We started here in Phnom Penh, went up to Siem Reap, then flew to Luang Prabang. Various places in Laos over the next 10 days or so, then squeezed in about a week in Vietnam before flying home. The coronavirus was becoming an issue at that point but we never dreamed it would ground us for so long nor cause the devastation that it has 🙁
margaret21
Fabulous portraits!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Margaret 😀
thehungrytravellers.blog
What fantastic photographs- love the one that captures the bird in flight against the setting sun. We saw the “live bird” sellers in Luang Prabang, birds crammed in to a tiny cage. We so understand why you would have bought the whole lot and set them free, seeing them crammed in that cage is horrible. You did the caring thing regardless of what happens next…
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much for these nice comments 🙂 Yes, I believe it was good to release the birds – maybe one at least made it to permanent freedom!
thehungrytravellers.blog
I have a question for you, Sarah….why “toonsarah”? I assumed at first that you were a Geordie but then we read that you’re a London girl….so tell me!
Sarah Wilkie
Ah, good question! You need to read my ‘About me’ page: https://www.toonsarah-travels.blog/who-am-i/ 😀
thehungrytravellers.blog
Will do!
thehungrytravellers.blog
Ah, found it, read it – and I was pretty close with the Geordie guess. You can tell Chris that I’m also a big fan from a one-club city. Born and bred in Derby and a lifelong fan – was still a season ticket holder until just a few years ago, despite living in Herne Bay. And feeling just a little smug that I got the “toon” connection right!!
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, there aren’t many that get the ‘toon’ connection 🙂 We were both season ticket holders for many years but since Chris’s parents died we don’t go up often enough to make it worthwhile and the switch from paper to plastic tickets made it much harder to pass them on to friends or relatives when we weren’t using them. Besides, these days (in normal times that is) it isn’t so difficult to buy tickets on a match by match basis so we usually do that when we go up.
Anna
Gorgeous photos! I nearly got myself to Cambodia once but other plans were thrown my way. Hopefully in the future!
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks Anna, glad you enjoyed this 🙂 You’d love Cambodia! I hope you make it there one day 🙂