Taking coals to Newcastle
an English saying
The phrase, taking (or carrying) coals to Newcastle, is used to indicate a pointless act, often relating to trade. The wealth and power of industrial north east England was founded on coal, and much of its coal was shipped from the quays of Newcastle. The last thing the city needed was more of the stuff, hence the futility of taking any there!
Today’s Tyneside’s is very different, and although the phrase persists you are unlikely to find any coal here. But as in many other places, the relics of the city’s industrial past are being transformed. And nowhere is that more apparent than on the banks of the Ouseburn, a small tributary of the Tyne just east of the city centre.
Here there are still plenty of signs of that past, including old warehouses and the remains of glass furnaces. But many of the old buildings have been transformed into cultural venues including galleries and artists’ studios. There are music venues too, a city farm and stables, traditional pubs and the national centre for children’s books, Seven Stories. This is fast becoming a trendy area to live, but despite some new buildings the old still seem to prevail. And of course there is plenty of street art.
A New Years Day walk
I have written about this area before and had no intention of doing so again, until a sunny New Years Day lured us down to the river to follow this familiar route. As so often when we retrace well-trodden paths, we found new things to photograph and new ways of photographing old sights. We also took a different route back into the city. So here for this week’s Monday Walk is a three-part gallery.
The first part follows the Tyne from beneath the Tyne Bridge to the mouth of Ouseburn. The second follows the burn up to Byker Bridge, via a footpath on its eastern bank before crossing to the west side to climb Stepney Bank. And the final part features a few sights along Byker Bridge, which later becomes New Bridge Street, to the city centre. I hope you enjoy the stroll!
Quayside to Ouseburn
Millennium Bridge and Baltic art gallery
A leftover from New Year celebrations by the Tyne
The Swirle Pavilion art installation which commemorates the European ports that were regularly visited by shipping from the Tyne
Tyne bridges from near Ouseburn
Ouseburn Victorian Schools, now serviced offices, reflected in a puddle
Bridge over the Ouseburn near its mouth
The poem references Anthony Gormley’s Angel of the North
Street art near the mouth of the Ouseburn
Along the Ouseburn
Under one of the bridges over the Ouseburn
Detail of boat moored at the mouth of the Ouseburn
Seen in full in my featured image
Odd little old paddle boat (with incongruous new solar panel)
Details from the old paddle boat
Under one of the bridges over the Ouseburn
Window detail, Stepney Bank Stables
Horse from Stepney Bank Stables
Street art on Stepney Bank
The house on the left is has a plaque indicating that it was once home to Jára Cimrman, Bohemian philosopher and inventor of the electric light bulb, assisted by local inventor Joseph Swann. Thomas Edison later copied and patented the idea. It goes on to say that Cimrman donated Jesmond Dene to the people of Newcastle after winning it from Lord Armstrong in a game of cards.
However Cimrman is in fact a fictional character with no association to this area. The building houses a ‘museum’ dedicated to him (currently closed) which also claims that he ‘invented the front door, but insisted they were only used externally on the first floor of buildings. As a result he received little acclaim for his invention during his life time. It was later adapted for use internally as well as on ‘street’ level and they have since become widely popular.’
Byker Bridge and New Bridge Street
The Gibson Street Baths
This municipal washhouse on the corner of Gibson Street and New Bridge Street opened in April 1907, and is one of the oldest public bath houses in England. More recently the building was used by a badminton club but is currently unused and up for development.
Above one of the entrances to the baths
National Fire Service sign
During WW2 the reservoir of water in the baths was used by the National Fire Service. The faded sign is still visible next to the door.
Street art on New Bridge Street
More street art on New Bridge Street
City Campus East, Northumbria University, built 2008
I visit Newcastle upon Tyne very often; these photos were all taken in January 2024
39 Comments
Sue
Great post, thanks for the Virtual Tour!
Sarah Wilkie
Glad you enjoyed it Sue 😊
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satyam rastogi
Beautiful post beautiful pictures 🌹🌹
Anonymous
Another city I’ve yet to visit…. the campus is so striking…
Sarah Wilkie
I’m very fond of Newcastle, well worth a visit if you get the chance
Amy
The boat image is beautiful, Sarah. These street art works are unique.
Thank you for taking us there.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Amy – this is a great area for street art, I find something new every time!
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
I used the phrase “coals to Newcastle” to someone once and she looked at me completely blankly! We walked round here on our last visit to Newcastle which is about 15 years ago now and I was intrigued. I wanted to go to Seven Stories of which I’m a member, though that’s still my only visit. Because it was an area you just wouldn’t have visited in my youth I had no sense of the geography and how it related to other places and was astonished to find myself at Clarence Street where one of my father’s churches was. Anyway, curiosity made me google it and I find it is now the Holy Biscuit Art Gallery! He must have been involved in the transition from the original chapel to the new one as we were there 1968-73.
https://www.mywesleyanmethodists.org.uk/content/chapels/northumberland/shieldfield-wesleyan-methodist-newcastle-on-tyne
You have sent me down memory lane!
Sarah Wilkie
How fascinating! We’ll have to check that out one day. It seems to have changed its name to the Shieldfield Art Works, perhaps to avoid confusion with the Biscuit Factory gallery which is in the same area? See https://ouseburn.co.uk/directory/the-holy-biscuit/
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
Makes sense! I remember visiting the Biscuit Factory at the time.
Graham Stephen
Essalamus
Essalamus
Essal… 😰😨😱
-✧✦☆❖◈❋✤☆✦-∞-♡-∞-✦☆✤❋◈❖☆✦✧-
Sarah Wilkie
Haha Graham 🤣🤣
Tanja
Interesting photos
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Tanja 🙂
grandmisadventures
I love that in such an industrial kind of city that there are these pops of whimsy and color. The odd paddleboat is fantastic in all its quirky fun 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
The industry is long gone, unless you count wider aspects such as tourism and the creative industries. But they’ve done a great job in adapting the old buildings 🙂
Easymalc
I’m fascinated by that paddle boat
Sarah Wilkie
We were too Malcolm – does it actually go, for one thing?!
margaret21
Ooh, Sarah, you’ve whetted my appetite to visit this little corner of a city I don’t know half as well as I’d like to. When I left university about two centuries ago, I said I’d like to live in Sheffield or Newcastle. Sheffield happened (hooray!) but Newcastle never did. Must visit more often!
Sarah Wilkie
If ever you are in Newcastle I’m sure you’d enjoy this walk Margaret – and if I can be there at the same time I’d enjoy taking it with you!
margaret21
Marvellous – thanks. ! I’ve already suggested it as an outing for our club.
restlessjo
You can’t get cross with the Quays and that whole Ouseburn development, can you, Sarah? It oozes character and there are so many details to linger over. I love that little bathtub boat with it’s solar panel. Definitely a story there. And how lucky to capture that horse being led up the hill! I’ve walked it or a variation many a time and never been disappointed, except by the weather which kind of adds to the grungy atmosphere. So many of our cities have things in common and I can find similar in Leeds, or Nottingham, or even Durham. Thanks so much for recreating this for me. Hope the journey today goes well.
Sarah Wilkie
I think they’ve done a fantastic job over recent decades in reinventing all of this area. I remember when Chris first took me there in the early 1980s, it was a real dump, with industry gone and only rubbish and ruins in its place. Now it’s so lively all along the Quayside and it was full of people out enjoying the (rare) sunshine in various ways. We’re back home safely now, and of course it’s raining again, but an improvement in the weather is promised for the weekend 🙂 I hope you’re starting to feel better too?
restlessjo
Good about the transport! Sounds a bit dramatic but I’m wondering when I’ll ever feel like me again. Shivering and shaking at the moment. Eyes are sore and weepy so reading isn’t a pleasure and I still keep feeling sick. It’s only Rafa Nadal who’s getting me through this 🤣🩵
Sarah Wilkie
Oh dear, poor you, that does sound horrid. I hope it starts to ease a bit soon and you’re more like yourself 🤗😘
thehungrytravellers.blog
Even Aladdin Sane makes an appearance. You’re right about repeating a familiar walk though, there’s always something different. No matter how many times I walk my “usual” stretch of the coastal path in Cornwall, the same applies.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, we find that even here in Ealing, walking through the park to the shops as we do at least once a week!
Anna
Happy new year Sarah! I hope it’s another fab travel year for you! X
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Anna, and happy new year to all of you too!
lisaonthebeach
I too want to know what will happen to you under the bridge!! But I love your quirky boat photos!
Sarah Wilkie
I wish I knew too Lisa!
lisaonthebeach
😁
Anne Sandler
What an interesting walk and so well documented by your lens. Loved the street art.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Anne – it’s a great area for street art and it’s always changing.
the eternal traveller
Now I’m curious. What will happen if you stand under the bridge, touch the wall and say that word three times?? 🙂
Monkey's Tale
A nice walk, seen through your eyes. That paddle boat is quirky isn’t it?! Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Maggie, glad you enjoyed the walk 🙂 Yes, the paddle boat is a bit of a curiosity!
Sarah Wilkie
I’m really not sure, and hard to test with the water of the burn between the path and the sign – I think you’d need to be in a boat to reach it!