Kotor has dropped an anchor between the grey mountains and the sea, and veiled its life behind the high and wide ramparts. Its bulwarks seem to have been eternally growing rock tendrils along the hill, up to the old fortress that overlooks the town.
From the Montenegro tourist board website
How appealing does that sound? And yes, the setting of the small old town of Kotor is very special. The beautiful Bay of Kotor on one side, the mountains surrounding it on the remaining sides, and still-intact walls encircling it, pierced by three old gates.
The town was established under Venetian rule and retains many of its renaissance palaces, old churches both Catholic and Orthodox, and a small cathedral.
The cats of Kotor
As a bonus for many of us, the town is home to a veritable clowder of cats. Yes, ‘clowder’ is, apparently, the collective noun for cats and Kotor has more than its fair share of cute moggies! The town community cares for them well (there is a dedicated cat feeding area in one corner of the old town). And tourists are encouraged to contribute by buying food and spending money in dedicated shops.
On the downside, the town’s small size combined with its attractiveness (plus its listing as a World Heritage Site and its endorsement by Rick Steves) mean that it draws more visitors than it can easily handle. The sheltered bay makes it a perfect stop for Mediterranean cruise ships and during the day you will find yourself picking your way between walking tour groups keen to soak up the atmosphere in the couple of hours they have available.
I’m not knocking cruises per se, they’re a good option for people who want to visit a lot of places with ease, enjoy all the extra entertainment, and without packing and repacking suitcases multiple times! But some places should probably either be off-limits to the larger ships or at least more strictly controlled. On the plus side, in the evening the cruise ship passengers have all gone back to their ships and the town is left to the relative few tourists staying there and to the locals.
Exploring Kotor
My recent weekend stay in Kotor, for the annual Virtual Tourist Euromeet, brought unwelcome rain. It didn’t of course stop us from exploring this picturesque old town. And when the sun came out on our final day naturally we took advantage of it to explore some more!
So for this Monday Walk I’m sharing both rainy and sunny walks, as in such a small town we inevitably covered some of the same ground several times.
A rainy day’s stroll in Kotor
On our first morning we woke to the unwelcome sound of rain and thunder echoing around. Looking out I saw low clouds over the surrounding hills. Given the weather my friends and I took our time over breakfast and getting ready to go out. Eventually though we donned rainwear, picked up our umbrellas and set off on a wander around the old town. Even in this weather and even full of damp tourists / cruise passengers, it was very quaint and photogenic.
For the most part we simply followed any lane or alley way that looked picturesque, but we did make a point of visiting the small Serbian Orthodox church of St Luke’s (nearby St Nicholas’s Church however was closed). St Luke’s was tiny but well worth seeing for some beautiful icons and a worn frieze on a side wall, and was free to enter.
In St Luke’s Orthodox church
The cathedral dedicated to St Tryphon, in contrast charged a 4 euro fee, but that included entry to an upper level with a collection of religious art and a view down over the square below.
St. Tryphon’s Cathedral and Treasury
In addition to visiting these churches, and taking quite a few photos, we found time to pet lots of cats, shop for souvenirs and take a couple of refreshment break, including lunch at the bar bottom centre of the shot above (under cover, naturally!).
A sunny morning in Kotor
Such a different picture on our last day in the town! Yes, I had woken to rain. But it didn’t last long, and the skies were clearing by the time I went to breakfast. With a free morning before a planned group outing, my friends and I decided to see a bit more of the town.
We began our morning’s explorations with a walk on part of the ramparts, enjoying views of the river, bay, port and town.
We then strolled around the Old Town lanes, looking lovely in the sunshine.
We popped into a few shops and discovered a little Montenegrin Orthodox church, dedicated to St Peter of Cetinje. I was surprised to see a replica of the Turin Shroud on the wall inside among all the icons.
St Peter of Cetinje Montenegrin Orthodox Church
We ended our walk in the square by St Luke’s church, meeting more friends for cold drinks. No cakes however Jo, as we’d been warned to save ourselves for a promised feast later in the day! But that’s a tale for another post …
I visited Kotor in June 2024
55 Comments
equinoxio21
The green door caught my eye… Perfect.
And Saint-Tryphon. That was the name of Professor Calculus in French. Tryphon Tournesol. I always Tryphon was invented…
One learns every day.
Merci.
Sarah Wilkie
That door was gorgeous, a must-photograph! Who is Professor Calculus?
equinoxio21
A must indeed. Calculus is scientist in Tintin’s adventures.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Professor_Calculus
Sarah Wilkie
Oh yes of course – I recognised the name but couldn’t place him!
Alice DeForest
Beautiful photos thanks for the tour.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Alice, I’m glad you enjoyed it 😀
Annie Berger
Your photos should be part of the official Kotor tourism site, Sarah, regardless of rain on the first day – they’re tremendously atmospheric! Gathering you must be a cat lover? We always stay clear of them when we travel as Steven is very allergic to them! Annie
Sarah Wilkie
I suspect the tourist board would prefer not to show the town in such poor weather, however atmospheric it made it 😄 Yes, I love cats but it sounds like Steven would be better to avoid Kotor!
leightontravels
I enjoyed your photos of Kotor, Sarah, particularly the ones depicting the town in rain. Firstly, because they are very atmospheric. But also since our two visits to Kotor were both on sunny days and we did not experience this moody ambient. The cats, of course are lovely and hugely add to the charm of the place. The picture of the monstrous cruise ship dominating the skyline behind the stone buildings is quite shocking. I do agree with you that certain places should just be taken off the itinerary of these mega cruises. Beautiful shots of various details from your meanders through the narrow streets.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Leighton 🙂 I agree it looks atmospheric in the rain, but after two days of it, and a boat trip to Perast cancelled, we were glad to eventually see the sun!
thehungrytravellers.blog
The cruise ship experience seems to be unavoidable in Kotor. We awoke one morning when one had docked overnight and it was as if they’d built a block of flats overnight! It was very hot and sultry when we were there, and with the fjord like location, the town was as much a haven for midges as a Scottish loch. Swarms of midges AND swarms of cruise wallahs…not sure which was worse…. (Only joking everyone 😂😂)….
Sarah Wilkie
I know just what you mean – those huge ships look just like an upmarket apartment block with the tiers of balconies! The smaller ones are both more attractive and more manageable for small towns like this. If ever I get to the point that cruising seems like the only practical way to travel, which I accept is the case for some, I would only be happy on the smallest of ships – I loved our 16 berth little Galapagos boat 😀 Oh well, at least I didn’t have to cope with midges!!
Leanne Cole
Looks like an incredible place to explore, love the cats. lol The cruise ship looks too big for what is there.
Sarah Wilkie
It’s a wonderful place for cat lovers and also for anyone who likes photographing historic buildings, especially interesting little details 🙂 But yes, that ship was far too big!
the eternal traveller
What a pretty place, even in the rain. One of the reasons we like to stay a few days in a place is that once the tourists have gone for the day we often have it to ourselves and can explore at leisure.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, exactly – we found the same in Split, although the cruises are less of an issue there as the town is much larger 😀
Anna
I am definitely adding a visit to Kotor the next time I go to Croatia. I haven’t had the time to go that far down south yet! Lovely photos!
Sarah Wilkie
You would love it Anna, but make sure you stay overnight at least so you can appreciate its quieter moments 🙂 BTW, it’s in Montenegro, not Croatia!
Anna
lol I know it’s in Montenegro, but it’s so close to Dubrovnik . I just haven’t gone that far south. I would definitely stay overnight, those cruise ships look horrendous!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Hi Sarah, our cruiseship visited Kotor in July. We were happy to have the opportunity to peek at this beautiful place, but unfortunately, cruising comes with both conveniences and tough choices. It was very hot the day we visited and we opted for a water adventure in lieu of a walking tour of the city. After having a miserable experience in Dubrovnik on a hot/crowded walking tour, I was happy with our choice of the Blue Cave and Beach outing. The boat ride to the caves allowed a glimps of the modern city and we both concluded that this was a place we wanted to return to.
I couldn’t agree more that the number of cruise ships visiting need to be regulated. We said that very thing in several ports of call, including Santorini, which is almost a lost cause at this point. Seven cruise ships were moored there the day we visited. I realize that travelers like us contribute to the problem, but someone has to take a stand and say ‘no more.’
It would be very unlike me to admit to FOMO, but your photos make me doubt our choice of excursions, just a teeny bit.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks for these thoughts Suzanne. I know how much you enjoyed your cruise and I wouldn’t want to deprive anyone of that pleasure! Who knows, it may be the only way we could travel at some point in the future – I certainly wouldn’t rule it out. And we’ve done some rather different cruises ourselves, but never in one of those huge ships – a 16 berth boat in the Galapagos, an 80 passenger boat on the Rhine (a birthday treat for my mother in law who by that point couldn’t walk any distance), Hurtigruten ferry/cruise along the Norwegian coast, and a 400 passenger ship in the Antarctic. I don’t think I’d ever want to go much bigger than that, but who knows? Necessity may make me reconsider one day!
You missed seeing a pretty town but it sounds like you had a great outing, and by choosing NOT to tour Kotor’s old town you helped keep the numbers down that day!!
grandmisadventures
The marketing department should be commended for such a perfect description of this beautiful city. Even in the rain it all looks so lovely. It’s nice that you could wander around after the crowds of cruisers had left 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, it was rather magical in the evenings – quiet streets (apart from on Saturday when a rock band played in the main square!), beautiful lighting on the old buildings, and relatively few people around (again, apart from Saturday!)
restlessjo
It does no good ranting but that image of the cruise monster behind the town is hideous. I’d love to do the town walls and hike up to the fortress though, Sarah. Thanks for sharing 🤗🩷
Sarah Wilkie
That big ship shocked me! I got up on the first morning, loved the view from my hotel window so photographed it and sent the shot to Chris, went into the bathroom and emerged about 20 minutes later to see that huge ship had moored in the meantime 🤬 You’d love that hike Jo, but you won’t be surprised I left it to some of the more agile in the group and focused on exploring the lower parts of the town 🙂
restlessjo
🤣🩵
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
You had me at the cats! I liked both strolls – the town was pretty in the rain but even prettier in the sunshine. That big ship really does dominate, can’t imagine the size of the horde it disgorged! The smaller boat is unobtrusive in comparison.
Sarah Wilkie
If you love cats (I do too!) it’s a fantastic little town to explore – they really are everywhere! These photos are just a few of my favourites 😆
Image Earth Travel
Lovely photos and wonderful write-up Sarah. Yes, lots of cats in Kotor!
I was in Kotor for a week in August last year, but wow, so many tourists! My Kotor article is one of 92 that I have in my drafts and just can’t seem to get to all these drafts – still publishing Japan from Mar/Apr last year!
We hiked up to the old fortress overlooking the town and the views are stunning, but not an easy hike. 😉
Thanks again for sharing this great post.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Nilla 😀 Oh, it must have been even busier with cruise passengers in August I guess! I’ll look forward to reading your impressions of the town when you get around to that post. I know what you mean about having drafts lined up, but many of mine are from much older trips as I tend to focus on the more recent ones and neglect those! I didn’t get up to the fortress as I’m not great at climbing, and my knees protest at the coming down part too 😆
Image Earth Travel
Ah, maybe lucky you didn’t as it was a little strenuous.
I’m sure I’ll slowly get around to finishing everything but I still have lots of journals from old trips that I need to digitise. 😉
Mick McCann
Sarah,
Thanks for taking me back there. I had a wonderful time in Kotor a decade ago. Yes, the cruise ships were there at the time, but it was much less hectic than Dubrovnik. There is a nice hike uphill to the border of Lovcen National Park with a great overview of the city and bay. I think in my next life I would like to come back as a cat in Kotor! Did you have a chance to visit the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks?
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Mick, I’m glad to have taken yo back to a place you enjoyed 🙂 I’m sure back then the cruises were more manageable – ships were smaller and there were fewer of them. The industry seems to have mushroomed in recent years! No, I didn’t get to Our Lady of the Rocks – some of our crowd did, but I’m not great at climbing so I preferred to focus on the sights down in the main town 🙂
Sue
What a wonderful place! Most photogenic, thanks for my Virtual Tour. But I do agree with you that some places should probably either be off-limits to the larger ships or at least more strictly controlled because smaller places just can’t cope with tourist numbers….
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Sue, so glad you enjoyed the tour 🙂 It’s those really large cruise ships that cause most of the problems. On that last day when there were only a couple of smaller ones there we didn’t notice nearly so many groups walking around, it was much more manageable. If they were all like that everyone could be happy, both those who like cruising and those who prefer to explore on dry land! But of course those smaller ships are more exclusive and more expensive, and these days it seems to be all about ‘bringing cruising to the masses’!
margaret21
This looks lovely from your account, but it sounds as if the cruise tours half ruin it. Don’t get me started on what I see as an entirely destructive branch of the tourism industry!
Sarah Wilkie
I wouldn’t go so far as to say the cruise tours ruin it, but they do detract from it. Luckily I think many of the passengers are bussed to other areas of the coast – if they all started walking around this tiny town it would be a nightmare!
margaret21
I see it from the Barcelona perspective. They fill up the city, and spend little or nothing. And cruises are supposed to be the least green form of transport on the planet.
Sarah Wilkie
All very true. Someone commented when I shared that photo on Facebook that the cruises bring more income for the town but I disagreed. Very few cruise passengers spend significant sums anywhere other than on board.
margaret21
I had a friend (well she used to be a friend) who rejoiced in the fact that she spent nothing once she got to a destination to explore for an hour or two.
Sarah Wilkie
I think that’s a very disappointing attitude. The places we visit give us so much pleasure, we have to give something back.
Monkey's Tale
It is very photogenic on a cloudy day, but I have to say I appreciate the sunny pictures more. I love it that the community looks after the street cats. Similar to many cities in Turkey. Maggie
Toonsarah
I didn’t mind the rain too much at first but after two days of it we were very glad to see the sun!
Anne Sandler
Thanks for taking us to this nice little town Sarah! Now I’m wondering what your dessert was!
Toonsarah
Glad you enjoyed it Anne, but I’m puzzled by the reference to dessert as I don’t think I mentioned having any?
Anne Sandler
So the “cake” wasn’t a future dessert? Now I’m confused!
Toonsarah
Ah, I see! No – Jo always has cake at the end of her walks but we didn’t eat anything when we stopped for refreshments that day as we’d been warned to come to our afternoon activity hungry! But it was more a full meal than just a dessert, included as part of a boat tour 🙂
Tanja
Great photos.and so nice that the town takes good care of its cat community
Toonsarah
Yes, it’s a great place for cat lovers as you see them everywhere and unlike some towns and cities, they are all healthy and well-fed!
Anonymous
That brought so many happy memories. I found it strange that, to this day, the cathedral is very distinct due to the unequal height of the two towers; the one on the left being markedly shorter. Apparently the 1667 earthquake inflicted serious damage to the towers and they were rebuilt in a Byzantine style during the 1700’s. One tower remains unfinished because the town ran out of funding (or so say the experts). Thankyou Sarah.
Toonsarah
Yes, I read that about the towers too – probably the same source/experts! Glad to have brought back good memories. You’re clearly a VT friend but the WP ‘anonymous’ thing has struck again. Please sign your comments in future so I can thank you properly 🙂
Yvonne Dumsday
Thankyou so much for sharing your memories and photographs. They reminded me of those amazing few days spent in that historical town.
Toonsarah
Glad to have brought back good memories of our stay there Yvonne 😀
Teresa
I agree, Kotor is so photogenic even in the rain.
Toonsarah
Yes, completely photogenic in any weather 🙂 Thanks Teresa!