Skip to content
staging
  • Home
  • Destinations
    • Africa
      • Botswana
      • Cape Verde
      • Gambia
      • Kenya
      • Namibia
      • Senegal
      • Tanzania
      • Zimbabwe
    • Americas
      • Belize
      • Chile
        • Rapa Nui
      • Ecuador
        • Galapagos Islands
      • Guatemala
      • Jamaica
      • USA
        • New Mexico
        • New York City
        • Washington State
    • Asia
      • Cambodia
      • DPRK
      • India
        • Kerala
        • Rajasthan
      • Japan
      • Laos
      • Oman
      • Syria
      • Vietnam
    • Europe
      • Austria
      • Bulgaria
      • England
        • London
      • Estonia
      • Germany
      • Iceland
      • Italy
      • Liechtenstein
      • Norway
      • Switzerland
      • Ukraine
  • Themes
    • Architecture
    • Art
      • Street art
    • Colour
    • Dark tourism
    • Eco-tourism
    • Food & drink
    • Gardens
    • History
      • Ruins
      • War
    • Landscape
      • Coast & seascapes
      • Deserts
    • People
      • Culture & tradition
      • Street photography
    • Wildlife and nature
      • Animals
      • Birds
      • Flowers
  • My photography
    • Travel galleries
    • Themed galleries
    • Photography challenges
      • Bird Weekly
      • Bright Squares
      • CFFC
      • Challenge Your Camera
      • Friendly Friday
      • Friday’s Foods of the World
      • Just One Person From Around the World
      • Lens-Artists
      • Monday walks
      • Sunday Stills
      • Ten photos
      • Thursday Doors
    • Photographic techniques
    • My photography journey: more than fifty years of images
    • Video
  • About me
    • Contact me
    • My love of travel: some special moments
  • Archive
  • Search Icon

staging

Travel snapshots from Toonsarah

Row of moai
Rapa Nui: the mystery of the moai

Rapa Nui: the mystery of the moai

October 18, 2020

When Europeans first came to what the Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen named as Easter Island, they were astounded at the sight of the megalithic figures that dotted the landscape. ‘We could hardly conceive how these islanders, wholly unacquainted with any mechanical power, could raise such stupendous figures’, wrote Captain Cook in 1774.

The moai of Rapa Nui (the islanders’ name for their home) almost all stand facing not out to sea, as you might imagine, but inland, watching over the village. The figures represent honoured ancestors and were placed here to continue to protect their village and its people after their deaths. By the time of Cook’s visit many of these iconic moai had fallen, or been toppled by the islanders. But enough remained to make this powerful impression on the new arrivals from Europe.

Moai on a hill
Ahu Huri a Urenga

By 1868 none were left upright, so the approximately fifty we see standing today have all been re-erected. The Rapa Nui oral tradition recounts that the statues were toppled from their platforms (known as ahu) in inter-clan disputes as society here crumbled in the face of great adversity, when famine came to the island as a result of deforestation. Some were toppled by rival clans during the fighting; some perhaps by the people of their own clan in anger that they had failed to protect them.

This is disputed by some experts who look to earthquakes and volcanoes as a more likely explanation. Our local guides, however, both of them native to Rapa Nui, were consistent in sticking to the clan warfare explanation.

Deforestation on Rapa Nui

There is even more controversy and uncertainly about the reason for the deforestation and its devastating effect on the island’s people. Traditionally the inhabitants’ over-use of resources is blamed: chopping down trees to make rollers to move the moai and for building purposes. Finally no trees were left standing, and they couldn’t even build boats to escape the island, which became their prison. If this is true, it is hardly surprising that they lost faith in the power of the moai to protect them and started to fight among themselves.

But some more recent theories point to the impact of sheep farming introduced by the Chilean government; or to climate change; or to a combination of all these things. Again our local guides echoed the oral tradition and stuck to accounts they had grown up with, that the people had at least contributed to their own downfall.

Moai or Ahu?

There is sometimes confusion between the ahu and the moai. Ahu are the island’s burial sites or shrines, located near each village. They are thought to derive from altars in French Polynesia. They are raised platforms made with stones and rubble, with a ramp that is often paved with beach cobbles and a levelled court in front. Many but not all have between one to fifteen statues on them, and these are the moai. Those ahu that have moai on them are known as ‘image ahu’.

These moai are the iconic symbols of the island. They date from around 1400 – 1650 A.D. There are thought to be between 800 and over 1,000 of them in total, many still buried or half-buried on the slopes of the main quarry, the volcano of Rano Raraku.

The main Ahu

Ahu Tahai

This is a large complex located very near to the town of Hanga Roa. It is actually a group of three ahu: Ko Te Riku, Tahai, and Vai Ure.

Panoramic view of moai
The Ahu Tahai complex

Ahu Tahai itself has a single rather weathered moai which (unusually) stands on a square base with no room for any others to be added.

Single moai with row of five beyond
Ahu Tahai and Ahu Vai Ure

Ahu Vai Ure has five moai, only a couple of which are reasonably whole – two are missing parts of their head and the fifth is headless and barely recognisable. There is also an empty spot where a sixth must once have stood.

Row of five moai
Ahu Vai Ure

Ahu Ko Te Riku will probably make the strongest impression on you here, as it did on me, as its moai is the only one standing on the island to have had its eyes restored. The replica eyes were based on one found at Anakena in 1978. This moai also has a pukao, the red stone topknot thought by most to represent the distinctive hairstyle of the Rapa Nui men.

Moai with top-knot and restored eyes

Ahu Ko Te Riku

Two moai, one with restored eyes

Ahu Tahai with Ahu Ko Te Riku beyond

Moai with top-knot and restored eyes

Ahu Ko Te Riku

Moai with top-knot and restored eyes

Ahu Ko Te Riku

Moai with top-knot and restored eyes

Ahu Ko Te Riku

Ahu Akivi

This group of seven moai are the only ones on the island that face toward the sea. This fact has led to much speculation about their origin and significance. However in truth is they are less dissimilar to the others than at first appears. Like all moai they did look over their village, as it lay in the strip of land between them and the sea.

But thanks to their seaward-facing stance they are, according to oral tradition, regarded as representations of the seven original discoverers of Rapa Nui – the explorers who, the tales say, first came here from Polynesia, on behalf of King Hotu Matu’a, to pave the way for future settlement. Scientists dismiss this story both because of the logical explanation of the positioning and the fact that the moai date from so much later than the era of first settlement. The local account is nevertheless more captivating than the prosaic scientific explanation!

Row of seven moai from behind with the sea beyond
Close-up of moai face

Ahu Akivi

Ahu Huri a Urenga

This is one of about 25 inland ahu, with a solitary moai striking for having two pairs of hands. It is thought to have acted as a solar observatory, marking the start of winter and signalling the culturally permitted times for different fishing and agricultural activities.

Moai on a hill

Huri a Urenga

Tall moai

Huri a Urenga

Moai on a hill

Huri a Urenga

Close-up of moai hands

The four hands of Huri a Urenga

Ahu Tongariki

Here is one of the must-see sights on Rapa Nui. This is the largest ahu ever built – 220 metres long, and with 15 moai. It was restored in the 1990s after a tsunami had caused further damage to the already toppled moai.

It is perhaps here more than at any other ahu that you can appreciate the physical differences between the different moai, clear evidence that each was carved to represent a separate individual ancestor. Some are taller and some short; some rather pot-bellied, others slimmer; some have snub noses, others more pointed; and so on. Only one still has his pukao or topknot, but a number of other pukao are scattered around the site. These were considered too damaged to safely replace without causing further irreparable damage. Their distribution gives you a sense of how far inland the waves of the tsunami carried these massive stones.

Row of moai against a blue sky

Ahu Tongariki

Row of moai with person photographing them

Photographing Ahu Tongariki

Row of moai seen from above

Ahu Tongariki

Two moai, one with top-knot

Two moai on Ahu Tongariki, one with top-knot

Moai with top-knot

One of the moai on Ahu Tongariki

Three moai, with the sea behind

Three moai, Ahu Tongariki

Row of moai

Ahu Tongariki

A little way in front of Ahu Tongariki a large moai lies on its back. You can see from the fact that its eye sockets were not carved out (which was always done once the moai were in place on the ahu) that it was never installed; instead it seems likely that it was damaged while being transported from the quarry at Rano Raraku and never used. It lies among the grass and flowers as if sleeping here, and maybe dreaming of a time when the moai were considered all-powerful by the island’s people.

Moai on its back
Fallen moai, Ahu Tongariki

Near the entrance to the field where Ahu Tongariki stands is a single lone moai, sometimes referred to by islanders as the ‘travelling moai’ because in 1982 it was loaned to the Japanese government to be shown in exhibitions there, as a thank you for the support for the restoration project. You can get some good photos here, with the travelling moai in the foreground and the 15 on the ahu beyond.

Large moai with row of more behind
Profile of moai

The travelling moai

Ahu Nau Nau

This ahu overlooks Anakena Beach on the island’s north coast, popular with locals and visitors alike.

Beach with palm trees
The beach at Anakena

But there is more to Anakena than sun, sand and sea. This beach is full of historical significance for the Rapanui. Oral tradition tells that it was here that first king, Ariki Hotu Matu’a, landed with his men and established the first settlement on the island. He is even believed to have lived in one of the caves here.

The ahu stands among palm trees (imported from Tahiti) It has seven moai, four of them with their pukao in place, and their backs (as always) to the sea, as if trying to ignore the frivolity of the swimmers and sun-bathers on the beach below.

Two moai

Two moai on Ahu Nau Nau

Row of moai

Ahu Nau Nau

Row of moai from behind

Ahu Nau Nau from the beach

Ahu Ature Huki, with a single large moai, sits on a sandy ridge above Ahu Nau Nau. It was the first to have been stood upright by Thor Heyerdahl, in 1956.

Moai among sand dunes
Ahu Ature Huki

Although they are scattered all over Rapa Nui, almost all of these megaliths were carved from the rock of a single volcano at the heart of the island. But that is a tale for a future post …

I visited Rapa Nui in 2016

Share this:

  • Click to share on X (Opens in new window) X
  • Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) Facebook
  • Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window) Tumblr
  • Click to email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window) Reddit
  • More
  • Click to share on WhatsApp (Opens in new window) WhatsApp
  • Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window) Pinterest

Like this:

Like Loading...

You may also like ...


Culture & tradition, History, Rapa Nui
chile, culture, easter_island, history, rapa_nui

Post navigation

PREVIOUS
Travel dreams
NEXT
Gallery: mosaic portraits of a dynasty

17 thoughts on “Rapa Nui: the mystery of the moai”

  1. Pingback: Rapa Nui: the birthplace of the moai ~ Travel with me
  2. Pingback: The Birdmen of Rapa Nui ~ Travel with me
  3. thebeerwanderer says:
    October 20, 2020 at 09:32

    Sorry we never made it out there, talk about remote and surely part of their awe-inducing mystery.

    Loading...
    1. Sarah Wilkie says:
      October 20, 2020 at 14:01

      Definitely remote – a six hour flight from the mainland 🙂

      Loading...
  4. Anna says:
    October 19, 2020 at 12:03

    Such a mysterious place that is on my travel list!

    Loading...
    1. Sarah Wilkie says:
      October 19, 2020 at 16:52

      Hi Anna – hope you make it there one day!

      Loading...
  5. Easymalc says:
    October 19, 2020 at 07:39

    How interesting to get in-depth look at at these fascinating stone figures – all helped by a super collection of photos

    Loading...
    1. Sarah Wilkie says:
      October 19, 2020 at 09:24

      Thanks so much Malcolm 🙂 I hope it wasn’t too ‘in-depth’ 😆 I did try to weed out the less interesting sites and photos!!

      Loading...
  6. TheRamblingWombat says:
    October 19, 2020 at 06:08

    I still hope to get to see these amazing statues at some point. Thank you for the wonderful pictures and the stories behind them.

    Loading...
    1. Sarah Wilkie says:
      October 19, 2020 at 09:25

      I hope you make it there Albert. I know you would be as fascinated by the culture around the moai (and Birdman – post to follow) as I was 🙂

      Loading...
  7. Tina Schell says:
    October 18, 2020 at 22:10

    Some day I’d love to see them. Nat Geo just did a great story about them. Apparently they needed to fence many of them off as tourists were eroding them. Sad.

    Loading...
    1. Sarah Wilkie says:
      October 19, 2020 at 11:16

      That’s interesting Tina. I don’t remember them being particularly fenced off when we were there (2016) and the tourists I saw were behaving well, but I guess there are always a few that spoil it for the rest 🙁

      Loading...
  8. Nemorino says:
    October 18, 2020 at 21:08

    Very impressive — and mysterious.

    Loading...
    1. Sarah Wilkie says:
      October 19, 2020 at 09:25

      Absolutely Don! Thanks for your visit 🙂

      Loading...
  9. Lesley says:
    October 18, 2020 at 15:00

    Great stuff. Some terrific photos. We were there in 2006 – the realisation of a childhood dream. I wonder what changes the ten years between our visit and yours have brought.

    Loading...
  10. Lesley Russell says:
    October 18, 2020 at 14:52

    Such an extraordinary place. Lots of great photos and information here, Sarah. When were you there?

    Loading...
    1. Sarah Wilkie says:
      October 18, 2020 at 16:17

      We were there in 2016. Thanks for the prompt – I should have included that info!

      Loading...

Comments are closed.

Comments are closed.

Follow me

Follow Travel with me on WordPress.com

Some topics I’ve touched on

africa architecture around_the_world_in_ten_photos art beliefs birds boats buildings bulgaria cffc chile churches cities customs deserts dprk ealing england friendly_friday gambia history india italy japan just_one_person_from_around_the_world landscape laos lens_artists_challenge london monuments museum new_mexico north_korea people photography photo_effects rivers ruins street_art street_photography sunday_stills usa village war wildlife

Some favourite photos

Man in a turban with fishing nets
Fisherman in Fort Kochi, Kerala
Two elephants in long grass
Okavango elephants
Blue glacier edge
Glacier Grey, Torres del Paine, Chile
Elderly woman in black hat and sunglasses
In Santiago, Chile
Very large statues of North Korean Leaders
Statues of the Great Leaders on Mansudae Hill, Pyongyang
Water reflecting the sky with clouds and low sun
Approaching sunset in the Okavango Delta
Feet of huge metal sculpture, with man standing beside
The feet of the Angel
Large moai with row of more behind
The ‘travelling moai’ and Ahu Tongariki
Black and white photo of elderly lady
On the streets of old Hanoi
Mountain reflected in a lake
On the road to Dyrholaey
Squirrel with a conker in his mouth
Silhouette of a man in a gateway
Looking out from Bundi Palace
Wet street and two people with bright pink umbrella
Street in Lucca, rainy day – edited
Blue and pink bird on a dead tree
Lilac-breasted Roller, Chobe NP, Botswana
Man sleeping in a tuk tuk by a carved stone wall
Tuk tuk driver by the Terrace of the Leper King
Close up of flamingo with head tucked under
Flamingo (Jersey Zoo)
Lady with baskets of fruit sitting by a canal
In Hoi An, Vietnam
Buddhist monk in orange robes with mobile phone
Monk at Wat Nong Sikhounmuang, Luang Prabang
Small fishing boat with a man in it, on a large lake
Lake Atitlan
Large tree trunks on a beach and foggy offshore islets
Rialto Beach

What are people talking about?

  • thehungrytravellers.blog on Kippers and castles: a walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh
  • Sarah Wilkie on My love of travel: some special moments
  • Sarah Wilkie on Gallery: April in Ealing
  • gaiainaction on My love of travel: some special moments
  • gaiainaction on Gallery: April in Ealing
  • Sarah Wilkie on Kippers and castles: a walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh
  • margaret21 on Kippers and castles: a walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh

Follow me

Follow Travel with me on WordPress.com

Archive

  • April 2021
  • March 2021
  • February 2021
  • January 2021
  • December 2020
  • November 2020
  • October 2020
  • September 2020
  • August 2020
© 2025   Copyright Sarah Wilkie - all rights reserved
 

Loading Comments...
 

    %d