{"id":2024,"date":"2020-11-26T12:19:28","date_gmt":"2020-11-26T12:19:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/toonsarah-travels.blog\/staging\/?p=2024"},"modified":"2021-01-26T14:46:26","modified_gmt":"2021-01-26T14:46:26","slug":"the-palio-della-balestra-in-gubbio-a-centuries-old-tradition","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/toonsarah-travels.blog\/staging\/the-palio-della-balestra-in-gubbio-a-centuries-old-tradition\/","title":{"rendered":"The Palio della Balestra in Gubbio: a centuries-old tradition"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Gubbio took a little while to weave its spell on me. When I first started to explore it seemed simply an old and attractive Italian town perched invitingly on a hillside, like so many others. <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then I attended the Palio …<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Palio della Balestra<\/a>, to give it its full name, is the festival of the crossbow fighters, a centuries-old tradition. It is full of colour and pageantry, but at its heart is a contest of skill and strength between the crossbow men of Gubbio in Umbria and those of Sansepolcro in Tuscany. It lasts the best part of a day, and the whole town seems to participate in one way or another. And the event is clearly embedded in the hearts and souls of the people. This is no tourist gimmick \u2013 indeed, very few visitors come. This takes place each year because it has<\/strong> taken place each year*<\/span>. History is not just the past here, it is the present too, and will be the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Medieval
The Palazzo dei Consoli in the Piazza Grande<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Gradually over the next few days Gubbio crept further under my skin. The wonderful views from each of the many levels of its hillside location; the bells ringing the quarter hours; the cobbled streets and medieval houses seeming barely untouched by the centuries; the food, the people, the scents; the sights and sounds of a place that seemed to be a little set apart from the world even while also being almost at the very heart of it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Narrow<\/figure><\/div>
\"Old<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The streets of Gubbio<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I have been back twice since my first visit, although only once more to the Palio, and could write much about this special town. For now though I will concentrate just on this one spectacular day in its annual calendar. My photos are a mix of those taken on both those visits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A brief history<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
\"Crossbows
Crossbows waiting for the Palio to start<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Palio della Balestra is a 550 year-old tradition. The Societ\u00e1 dei Balestrieri possesses a document dated May 16, 1461 which refers to it. In those days the city relied on this society of crossbowmen for protection. At their annual Palio they would demonstrate their skills in a contest with their counter-parts from Tuscan Sansepolcro, as part of the series of events that followed Gubbio\u2019s festival to honour its patron saint, Sant\u2019 Ubaldo. It is this contest that still takes place today, though as a purely ceremonial event; no crossbows (to the best of my knowledge) are ever fired in battle these days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let me take you through this special day \u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lettura del Bando<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

At 11.00 am on the day of the Palio, a herald tours the town to announce the forthcoming contest. This is the \u2018Lettura del Bando\u2019, which calls the townspeople to the event. The words and some of the language are ancient; but the resonating voice, and the sound of the drummers and other musicians who accompany him, are stirring enough regardless of how much you understand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Man<\/figure><\/div>
\"Man<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The \u2018Lettura del Bando\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Processions through the town<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

On the afternoon of the Palio the whole town is in ferment of preparation, especially those who play a major role. Of course the balestrieri<\/em>, the crossbowmen themselves, must dress in their uniforms (quartered mauve and black for Gubbio, quartered gold and black for Sansepolcro). But many other local people have a part to play, and a costume to wear. The sbandieratori<\/em> who will demonstrate their ancient skills in flag-throwing; the musicians whose stirring sounds will punctuate the day; and those who take the roles of members of the medieval nobility. The latter dress in authentic costume \u2013 even the hairstyles of the ladies are in keeping, meticulously copied from contemporary paintings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A little before 4.00 pm they all start to assemble on the small piazza outside the Palazzo del Bargello, and from there they set off, winding their way through the town\u2019s ancient streets. The drums echo from the surrounding buildings, and people gather to watch. <\/p>\n\n\n