The Kankanaey people of Sagada, an Igorot (mountain) tribe in northern Luzon, follow a unique burial ritual. Rather than placing their coffins in the ground they hang them from cliffs or place them in a cave. They believe that the higher the dead are placed, the closer they are to heaven and the greater the chance of their spirits reaching a higher nature in the afterlife.
There is also a practical reason: this area is prone to flooding, which would disturb conventional graves, and make it easier for dogs or wild animals to dig down and break the coffins. Some also say that in the past it helped to protect the bodies from enemy tribes’ head-hunters; others that it preserved the limited fertile ground at the foot of the mountains for growing crops.
This ancient tradition dates back over 2,000 years and is still practised by some today, although the official line of the government is that it stopped some years ago. Most accounts say that the most recent hanging coffin ‘burial’ was in 2010, but we were told that there have been other more recent ones. In fact, our guide Jezzy told us she had attended one only a couple of years ago. Of course, the ones we see today are ‘only’ a few hundred years old, as eventually they fall, or decay and break apart.
While I already shared a few photos taken in Sagada, when still away in the Philippines, I feel there is still room for a fuller post about our visit to the town. So here are two very different Monday Walks.
Customs and traditions surrounding the hanging coffins
Not everyone can have the honour of a hanging coffin burial. Firstly, the deceased has to be a pure-blood member of the Kankanaey ethnic group, although exceptions are made as we were to see. Secondly, they must have grandchildren, and finally, they need to have died of natural causes.
According to Kankanaey custom, the elderly carve their own coffins out of hollowed logs. If they are too weak or ill, their families prepare their coffins instead. The dead are placed inside their coffins traditionally in a foetal position as it is believed we should leave this life as we entered it. To facilitate this a dead person would be seated in a chair, known as a sangadil or death chair, in the family home for some days. Animal sacrifices would be made and the dead person would receive visitors and gifts. We saw some fascinating old photos of this practice in an interesting museum we visited earlier the same day, in Bontoc, taken by Filipino photographer Eduardo Masferré. In the same museum we saw a mock-up of a typical wealthy house showing a sangadil in use.
Bontoc museum with the model of a sangadil or death chair (click on the righthand image to read the sign which describes the custom in more detail)
Visiting the hanging coffins
The coffins can be seen in various locations around the town. The locals are understandably keen that these sacred sites don’t become an Instagram phenomenon, so visits are only permitted with a local guide. The guides ensure that respect is maintained, including speaking with low voices and not taking ‘funny’ photos with the coffins. We visited with Ben, who was very informative and friendly.
The cemetery
At the start of our walk the path led through the more modern cemetery. Ben told us how this was introduced by the Americans who also built a church, school and hospital here. He described the local custom of lighting bonfires by the graves, especially on November 1st (we could see the remains on the ground). On this exposed site candles would quickly be blown out, but a small fire will last much longer. Ben was keen to stress that this is a very different occasion from the Mexican Day of the Dead, though it shares the same roots and the same aim of remembering and honouring the ancestors. There has been some consternation locally that tour operators promote it as a tourist ‘attraction’ whereas the families would much prefer it to remain private.
Sagada cemetery and the grave of a Philippines-born US soldier
Ben also pointed out the grave of a soldier whom he said died while on a mission to kill the terrorist thought to be behind the Bali bombing. However I’ve found no information to corroborate that online. Another was of a US national from Hawaii, an adoptee from Filipino birth parents, who was killed in the Korean War. There was also a memorial to the victims of WWII.
The hanging coffins
As we walked Ben talked about the traditions and challenges associated with funerals here. Carrying the coffins to this remote spot, and hauling them up the cliffside, isn’t easy. People take it in turns to carry the coffin and it is considered an honour to do so. Furthermore, he said, if any liquids seep from the coffin onto the carrier it is seen as a special blessing, so people often compete for the chance to carry it. These fluids are thought to bring success and to pass on the skills of the deceased to any who come into contact with them.
The path led us to a viewpoint looking across the valley to some of the hanging coffins. We could see how Christianity had blended with local beliefs as one coffin had a large wooden cross on top. And the more modern coffins were larger, as the practice of burying in the foetal position is dying out.
The coffins seen from across the valley
Burial caves
Following the path down lower we came to a burial cave. I needed Ben’s help to scramble up the steep muddy slope to see inside. But it was worth it for the eerie sight of a pile of old wooden coffins topped by two skulls. Ben told us these skulls were from coffins that had rotted, exposing the contents. A small and clearly newer box stood in front, engraved with the name of ‘Backis’. Ben explained these were the ashes of a German who had lived here for many years and wanted to be allowed to be part of this local tradition on death, an honour usually reserved for natives of Sagada. He had so much assimilated himself into local life that his wish was granted. His wooden stick lay on top of the box and his local name was carved on the front.
The cave with coffins
From here the path descends to give a closer look at the coffins across the valley. However I decided to skip that after yesterday’s exertions, so Chris went on with Ben while I returned to the viewing area with Jezzy where I took more photos as we chatted. She pointed out what I had missed, another group of coffins on a more distant cliffside.
Coffins in a cave on the more distant cliff (lower right in the first image)
More burial caves
As we started to make our way back to the parking area it began to rain. On the far side of town we stopped again near two other burial caves. One was very near the road and was reserved, Ben said, for women who died in childbirth. This is the one in my featured photo.
The other cave necessitated a steep climb down a wet path, so again I decided to let Chris go down with Ben while I waited at the top. On his return he told me that had been a wise decision as the path was very slippery and had no handrail. He has kindly allowed me to use one of his photos to show you what I missed!
Sagada town
After exploring the hanging coffins with Ben, and checking into our hotel (a simple but friendly guest house in the centre of Sagada), we went out for a rather different walk, a stroll around the town. There was a scattering of street art murals and several coffee shops.
Street art in Sagada
Jezzy had pointed out one coffeeshop which she claimed had won best coffee in the world in 2017, so of course we had to go there. To be honest I have had better coffee elsewhere in the world! But it was very good and certainly the best I’d had to date in the Philippines. And it was a welcome way to warm up in this chilly mountain town and relax after our explorations.
Bana’s coffeeshop
I visited Sagada in February 2025
29 Comments
Teresa
Great post Sarah and I reckon that the first walk is quite interesting because of its history and tradition. But of course for me the streetart is my happy place.
Sarah Wilkie
I enjoyed the street art too but that’s something I can see in lots of places, whereas the hanging coffins are unique so fascinated me much more 😀
grandmisadventures
Very different walks indeed between the bright colors of the street art and the somber remembrances of the coffins. Both beautiful parts of the city in different ways
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Meg, I’m pleased you found these walks beautiful as we did too!
Annie Berger
I really enjoyed reading this detailed description of burial rites and traditions, Sarah. As we’d planned to visit Sagada in early 2020, I was familiar with the hanging coffins and had looked forward to seeing them. Placement of coffins in the caves was, however, new to me. Glad you had good guides in Ben and Jezzy, as that probably made a big difference to your understanding and appreciation of what you were seeing. Great post.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Annie 🙂 I’m sorry you had to miss out on seeing these sights for yourself after reading and planning so much. Maybe one day … Jezzy in particular was an incredible guide. We spent around a week travelling around with her and a driver called Edwin and were so fortunate that she was such a pleasure to spend time with – great company, knowledgeable about the sights, clever at planning little extra stops and finding great places to eat etc. We’ve stayed in touch via WhatsApp and I messaged her when we spotted a Jollibees (the Filipino McDonalds) in Newcastle!
rkrontheroad
What an unusual and moving (and somewhat creepy) tradition. I’m surprised they are so open in sharing this with tourists. I love the street art woman over the motorcycles. I wonder if there is some story there.
Sarah Wilkie
I suspect they realise that if they didn’t control the narrative by providing guides and requiring their use, some tourists would go to look at the coffins regardless and of those, a few would be less than respectful.
rkrontheroad
That makes sense.
thehungrytravellers.blog
As I think we told you, we carried on along the longer hike which was really good, except for my near death experience in the rice fields, but that’s another story altogether. Brings back memories looking at your photos, what great experiences the Philippines gave us all.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, I remember reading about your longer hike although not your near-death experience! Glad to have brought back good memories as well as that one 🙂
Life...One Big Adventure
Huh! You learn something every day! 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Indeed, and especially when travelling!
Heyjude
I share Jo’s thoughts and the idea of welcoming bodily fluids dripping on you horrifies me 😱
Sarah Wilkie
I know – that was the bit that horrified me too!
margaret21
Fascinating stuff Sarah/ Sad to see some tour operators converting it into a quaint must-see experience.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Margaret 🙂 Yes, I think some tour operators have seen what has happened in Mexico and other parts of Latin America, where the Day of the Dead has evolved into a public festival alongside the individual family celebrations and are keen for the same thing to happen here. I’m pleased though that the locals are taking steps to protect their customs.
margaret21
Good to hear.
restlessjo
I find it all a bit macabre, Sarah, but that’s just me. I can see that there are practical reasons, but I’m glad that the tradition hasn’t spread. I’m happier pottering around street art. Many thanks for the link xx
Sarah Wilkie
Oh I don’t think it’s just you Jo! We’re used in the west to hiding our dead but attitudes vary around the world. I personally found this less macabre than seeing funeral pyres burning in Nepal or India, for example.
restlessjo
I could never go to Varanasi, Sarah xx
Sarah Wilkie
Whereas I really want to – does that make me weird or morbid? I’m just fascinated by different customs around the world!
restlessjo
I think it’s on most people’s list out of curiosity, but I’m horrified at the whole funeral pyre thing.
EgÃdio
What an amazing post and photos, Sarah!
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Egidio 😊
Monkey's Tale
Such a fascinating tradition. I hope it doesn’t become an instagram sensation. I thought it funny that one condition of burial is that they must have grandchildren. I guess only those who can pass on the village customs can have a coffin there.
And then as you say, the cheery colours of the town don’t match the natural setting of the burials. Such an interesting post. Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Maggie 🙂 I have a feeling Ben mentioned the reason for the rule about grandchildren but he told us so much it was hard to take it all in!
Anne Sandler
This is a unique burial experience Sarah. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Anne, I’m pleased you found it interesting 🙂